A ferry ride across the bay from El Puerto sits the old port city of Cadiz.
As in El Puerto, orange trees grow in plazas, amazing glazed ceramic tiles cover public seating, the walls of old buildings, and the floors of courtyards – glimpses of which can be seen through wrought iron barred entrances when their massive timber doors were open.
The historical centre of Cadiz invites ambling – and stopping for un cerveza or una copa de vino tinto y tapas is an integral part of the experience: pulpo, gambas, albondigas, and always a little plate of olives. The variety of olives, and the diversity of styles of preparation, means every little plate is a newly flavoured surprise!
Ambling also means happy accidents – like finding a modern art gallery not mentioned on the tourist map – holding a photo exhibition by Miguel Trillo, a photographer who took so many of those iconic photos of bands, musoes and disaffected youth, from the late 70s through to the last decade. And he’s a local lad from Jerez de Frontera!
Art galleries and archaeological museums aside – the city itself is a living museum with most of its original fortress walls intact (walked along most of it) – Cadiz has some huge civil engineering works. A huge new suspension bridge is being constructed across the bay to handle the traffic which clogs the current bridge that only allows one lane of traffic each way. A massive floating dock for making concrete barges dwarfs most ocean going vessels which pass it. Two massive high tension power cable towers standing on either side of the bay dwarf the towers of the new bridge. The city itself, however, is low rise with eight storeys being about the highest of any buildings (mostly apartment blocks on the city edge).